A non-ugly activity...

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Dthraco's picture
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A small but fun wave last saturday:

We spent the weekend in Ocean Shores, WA. This wave was a bit of a suprise in a cove around from the open ocean. The swell was way dirty out there, but was big enough to wrap around and hit this cove. Small, but clean and fun. The water - 50 degrees...nice and warm for Washington surf. I uploaded this to the surf spot on Wannasurf.com, hense the logo. Oh, that black stuff above the wave was a submerged jetty that the wave was breaking past. I didn't find that out till low tide.

The next day I was at a different break and we had some company. About 2-3 seals were checking us out. They would bob up and look and look. To them we looked like ther seals..all black in our wetsuits. They were every bit as big as we were.:D

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Dude, It's like, Surf Ninja

:p

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just bust it out dude... no one listens to the bass solos anyhow.... no fear!!!

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hehe..DarthNinjaTacoSurfer..........DNTS!

D_thraco, sigoth actually bodysurfed in the Pacific in March one time.......COLD WAWA....I was getting seashells and sand dollars at Pismo beach then, and the waves were serious, the water was hitting my feet, it was like ice!

:eek:

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Darth are really a surfer? If you are, that's an athletic sport for sure. I don't know how you guys stand up on those boards.

Thorny, I bodysurfed Pismo and Avala Beaches when I was in high school. I used to take a trip down to San Luis Obispo once a year just to hang at the beach, it was a real blast.;)

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Dthraco's picture
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I am definitely a surfer, it's in my soul. Give me a clean 6' swell on a sunny day and I am at complete peace.

I used to go every other weekend, but at 220mi one way to get there, and gas prices...I only go occasionally. But Surfing is in my soul. I love it, and will eventually move somewhere closer to the beach so I can surf more.

I used to be a sponsored skateboarder out of high school. Then I learned to surf, and then snowboard. I *retired* from skating after a really bad fall three years ago. So now I just snowboard and surf.

Standing up on the board is very similar to the other two board sports. Probably the easiest of the three. But catching the wave and picking the right one is the hard part.

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Hey Darth, come to Oz - we have heaps of clean offshore breaks, and not nearly as many grommets as you do. Plus, we don't have to wear a 15mm wetsuit to enjoy it.
I live about 20-30 mins away from Bells Beach, WinkiePop etc - great waves, no hassles.
I've also got a spare 6'4 thruster if you want to take on some six-to eight glassy offshore.
WooooHooo!

BTW that wave you were riding - I have bigger in my bathtub!!
If it was seven foot bigger - not bad.
The submerged pier - now that's a problem

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That, sir, is beyond tempting!

I hear you on the wave size. But it was what was avialable at the time.

Biggest wave I have ridden was 3-4' overhead. Was near Hana on the west coast of Maui. Both scary and exciting at the same time. When it gets that big, I always tell myself I need to learn how to hold my breath longer.

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Cool, I've never surfed before, one thing I'd like to try.

I'm usually up to:

A little of this:

A lot of this:

And I quite enjoy this:

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Heavy, I think I'll come out that way for some canoeing, fishing, and camping. That's right up my alley. I've read about the awesome canoeing in Ontario and would love to go there for that.

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It's what happens inbetween the canoooooing, camping and fishing that's the REAL fun, right HeavyP?

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That's totally an ugly activity :D

I gotta surf in Hawaii with a 'Heavenly Flower', that's literally what her name meant. It was a blast coming from a lifetime of skating and snowboarding.

Better watch those seal outfits though, sharks like seal.

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I always looked at surfing and diving in Oregon and Washington kinda like snow-skiing in Hawaii Sure, you can do it... but it's not really worth the bother. If the waters cold enough where I have to wear more than just my shortie suit and a scuba tank... I'm not going in.

But that's just my take on things... Looks like fun ( without the 50F water).

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Doink;155005 wrote:
Better watch those seal outfits though, sharks like seal.

Yeha, I try not to say the s word when I'm out. While rather rare, the only sharks we get up here are the 20+ foot Great White's. And there's usually a seal or two hanging out around us...can be creepy at times. For the most part, they say the water is too cold for them. They say that the only one's that come this far north are big females.

I hear you Uncle Fat. Besides the closet beach being 3.5 hours and 210 miles away, we gotta don the fullsuit. But the payoff is really good when it comes. I learned to surf in Florida, the surf here is monstrous compared to there. We get 30' swells in the winter, too big to surf on the open ocean, but they come into the striat of Juan De Fuca. And when that happens, they come in clean and light up the whole strait. Have to ride a ferry to get there, but man it's nice.

Oh, and with that much rubber on, and cold water, you float. No effort at all to pop to the surface.

Of course, none of this compares to surfing with 'heavenly Flower' in Hawaii. Having surfed both Oahu and Maui, it was sure hard to put on a wetsuit again and get out there.

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Dthraco;155015 wrote:
Yeha, I try not to say the s word when I'm out. While rather rare, the only sharks we get up here are the 20+ foot Great White's. And there's usually a seal or two hanging out around us...can be creepy at times. For the most part, they say the water is too cold for them. They say that the only one's that come this far north are big females.

I hear you Uncle Fat. Besides the closet beach being 3.5 hours and 210 miles away, we gotta don the fullsuit. But the payoff is really good when it comes. I learned to surf in Florida, the surf here is monstrous compared to there. We get 30' swells in the winter, too big to surf on the open ocean, but they come into the striat of Juan De Fuca. And when that happens, they come in clean and light up the whole strait. Have to ride a ferry to get there, but man it's nice.

Oh, and with that much rubber on, and cold water, you float. No effort at all to pop to the surface.

Of course, none of this compares to surfing with 'heavenly Flower' in Hawaii. Having surfed both Oahu and Maui, it was sure hard to put on a wetsuit again and get out there.

Surf Ninjas' surf where least expexted

You be surfin' they be hatein':p

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just bust it out dude... no one listens to the bass solos anyhow.... no fear!!!

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Awhile back I saw a pic in one of the local papers. A guy was out surfin a swell in the Colorado River. Some pretty big rapids in the Glenwood Canyon :D

Was pretty cool but if you fall you're gonna be half mile down stream before you get out.

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The Great Australian Bight is well known for Great Whites. It also has a great wave:

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