wiring question pleaaase help

what is the impedance now? model #?

parallel impedance adds like this 1/Rt = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + ...+ 1/Rn

series impedance adds like this 1/Rt = R1 + R2 + ...+ Rn

if each speaker was 24 ohms, you could do 6 parallel speakers...

1/Rt = 1/24 + 1/24 + 1/24 + 1/24 + 1/24 + 1/24 = 6/24 = 1/4

Rt = 4 ohms

impendance now is 5.3 ohms i dont have a model number

you have 32 ohm speakers now...

5.3333 = 16/3

3/16 = 6/32, or 32 ohms each..

here's a good info page http://colomar.com/Shavano/spkr_wiring.html

i do not have 32 ohm speakers i have 8 ohm speakers in parallel series wiring. which ends up 5.3 ohms

ahh i see. still an odd impedance though

That doesn't make sense. Hmmm. (It sounds good huh?) relax jackie will help you get it figured. he's an electrical engineer and the smartest cab guy I know.

H

yeah 3 speakers in parallel in series with the other 3 in parallel.

1/(1/8 + 1/8 + 1/8) + 1/(1/8 + 1/8 + 1/8) = 1/(3/8) + 1/(3/8)= 8/3 + 8/3 = 5.33333

yeah it is really odd. i got the cab for 80 bucks. so its not a hug deal im new to this whole ohms thing i dont get it haha. thanks for your help man.

can't beat that kinda deal. run with it as is if it sounds good.. or figure out how to get 24 ohm speakers. ;)
genz benz has a 4 ohm 6x10 iirc. not sure of the impedance of swr or ampeg 6x10

i have another question for you jackie,

this is my understanding please correct me if im worng

my ohm rating on my amp is 4 ohms so if i run 8 ohms my speakers will just not be as loud as they could be and if i run a <4 ohm cab i can make my amp overheat and blow?

ooo what if i only wired four of them, in series parallel

ooo what if i only wired four of them, in series parallel

you can always run a cab with a numerically higher impedance on your amp and not fear smoke and fire (assuming solid state power section here)....... as long as the mfr has provided specs @ that impedance. most do provide 4 and 8 ohm power output specs..... but you don't want to run a cab with an impedance numerically lower than the minimum your amp can handle as it will eventually overheat.

so yes your understanding is correct.

a tube power section will actually have an impedance selector switch (or at least those i've seen have) and not auto adjust to the load as you have to select OT taps...

My suggestion:

Assuming you have two input jacks and all of the drivers are working

if you run 4 drivers in series parallel like you've shown

you could have an 8 ohm curcuit to one input

if you run 2 drivers parallel you have a separate 4 ohm curcuit to the other input

you would have an option to run a 2x10 4 ohm alone in a smaller room or a 4x10 8 ohm with another 8 ohm cab like a 1x15 in a larger venue.

just be sure to mark which input is which

You won't be able to run all of the speakers together with just your current amp because together the impedence would equal 2.67 ohms which is below the minimum rating for your amp

but it does give you options

thanks soooo much for the help guys. i feel bad cause all i do is ask questions on this forum. haha. i just have no bass knowledge to share just yet, but im working on it

My suggestion would be to run it as is. If your amp will handle a 4 ohm load and you have 5.3, the added benefit of speaker surface area will probably net you more than running it at 4ohms with 4 speakers. Plus if the inside isn't divided into 3 sections of 2 or 6 sections of 1 and you are running 4 in the space designed for 6 it may very well change the sound of the cab. Just a thought.

H

I think H hit it again, as usual.

You'd likely get more SPL's just running it as is at 5.3 ohms than reducing the number of drivers for lower impedence. I rather doubt that there would be much discernible difference even if you wired all six together at 4 ohms.

Especially at that price!

Just rock it, as is.

great advice

thanks again guys i am gonna try it when i get back in town

I've looked into this a fair bit having a 6x12. If you are running solid state amps, then you are fine at 5.3, most cabs with 6 speakers are labeled 6ohm.

Valve amps are a little more fun, because they are fussy both ways. However, since its only a nominal impedance (to properly quote impedance you need a specific frequency, the nominal is the rough average between 500hz and 1khz usually). If you have an impedance tap, set it to 8 ohm, rather than 4, happier on your transformer, although your valves will be slightly more stressed (a tiny bit, and valves have a lifespan anyway).

Some people will suggest mixing 4 and 8 ohm speakers to get an exact total. This is bad because the 4 ohm speaker will receive twice the power of the 8s, so your cab will end up hitting the fart limit at half power.

The problem I forsee with a cab that's 5.33 or 6 ohms is that it will have to be a stand alone with a 4 ohm amp.

6x10 is a nice stand alone so if that's what you intend, go for it,

but if you wanted to add a cab to increase power from the amp and speaker efficiency at a later date, you could possibly use an 8 ohm cab but that would put you somewhere under 4 ohms flirting with amp meltdown and as stated before the higher resistance cab will get less power from the amp let alone the phasing issues you could face from that.

Keeping a cab at 4ohm, 8 ohm or 16ohm is a more definite way to ensure your amp is running at a safe output with balanced input to the cabs.